Nov 04
Review: The Exotic Teapot Tieguanyin Oolong
Oolong Tea, The Exotic Teapot, Ti Kuan Yin Tea Add commentsLynn’s Teaview Snapshot
 | "The flavor was mouth filling, light, and sweet like fresh grapes or lychee, but very light, with just an underlying hint of that bright-edged taste that reminds me of metal, but not in an unpleasant way at all."
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This offering from London’s Exotic Teapot is a spring oolong from the Anxi Mountains of China, from where many a good oolong springs.There are two famous stories about how “Iron Goddess of Mercy” tea got its name. In the more familiar one, a devout Buddhist farmer is given the first tea tree by the Goddess of Mercy, Guanyin (also known as Kwan Yin, Kannon, and Avolokitshivara), who instructs him to share it with others. Depending on who is telling the story, the “iron” epithet comes either from the fact that the tea leaves were dark green tinged with red around the edges, like rust, or that the tea has a slightly metallic taste, which I have found to be the case with many samples.
The second, less often told story, is about a scholar who failed his imperial exams and went mountain climbing to enjoy the sunset each day. (I’m not sure what one has to do with the other but I didn’t write the story.) One day he found a leafy branch growing out of crack in some rocks and, for reasons known best to himself, he took it home to his garden and nurtured it. It was, of course, a tea tree. He discovered the brew, and took some to his teachers. They were impressed and gave some to their higher ups. One thing led to another until the tea found its way to the famous emperor, Chien Lung of the Ching Dynasty. Delighted, the emperor called for the scholar, who informed the emperor that the tea was grown under the Kuan-yin rock and weighed as much as metal. This was how the emperor named the tea. (From The Way of Tea by Master Lam Kam Chuen)
Frankly, I like the first story better.
Dry, these tea leaves are in thick, dark green twists like little fists, and have a faintly grassy aroma. I brewed two heaping teaspoons gong fu style in a 4 oz Yixing teapot. (I prefer gong fu brewing for oolongs, but similar results can be achieved with a smaller brewing cup with a lid to hold in the heat and steam. A good amount of leaf and multiple short steepings should yield good results.)
I first covered the leaves with 175F water and immediately poured it off. Some Chinese tea masters call this “foot water.” I then filled the pot, poured hot water over it (it's in a bowl), and let it stand for about 30 seconds—the time it takes for the hot water to evaporate from the sides of the pot. The resulting liquor was a clear golden yellow, and the fragrance was, fortunately, fruity rather than grassy. The flavor was mouth filling, light, and sweet like fresh grapes or lychee, but very light, with just an underlying hint of that bright-edged taste that reminds me of metal, but not in an unpleasant way at all. As the tea cooled both sweetness and fragrance continued to improve. Each sip left a pleasant taste and scent at the back of my mouth.
The previous infusion had left the leaves partially open. I brewed the second in the same manner and let it steep a few seconds longer. The liquor was a bit darker this time, the fragrance a little heavier and richer. With oolongs the second cup is so often the best. This is borne out with the first sip. The liquor was noticeably thicker, more mouth filling, the flavors more pronounced and deep, and there was just a hint of nuttiness. It left a distinctly tactile sensation on my tongue, like a light coating of oil. This is not the best oolong, or Tieguanyin, I’ve had, but it’s a very good one.
The third infusion was again golden and fragrant, but the sweetness was lighter, and there was a touch of astringency. So far was as if I’d been served three different teas, each of them very refreshing.
As I said, this is not the best Tieguanyin I’ve had, but it’s very good, and at roughly $9.50 for about 2.5 oz, it would be a very fine everyday tea.
— To purchase The Exotic Teapot Tieguanyin Oolong, or for more specific information on ingredients or the story behind this particular blend, click here to go directly to the manufacturer's web site.
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