White tea is slightly fermented, and there are two forms: leaves covered in silvery white down (hence the name), or downless darker leaves. Canton Tea Company’s Yen Zhen is of the former variety, thick needle-shaped leaves well fuzzed. White tea is not quite as popular as other teas in the West—though this may be changing—due to its subtlety. Both fragrance and taste are very weak, and must be sought out thoughtfully to be appreciated.

I steeped 3 oz (about two rounded teaspoons) of the dry leaf in one cup of 175F water for two minutes and was rewarded with a pale golden liquor that seemed at first not to have any fragrance at all. When I held my left hand around the rim of the cup, however, trapping the steam, I detected a faintly floral fragrance. Drinking this from a tall, narrow cup might be a good idea on that account.

As for flavor, at first it seemed that I was drinking hot water, though enhanced, like spring water, but the flavor was in the lingering aftertaste. It was like a very light honey, or clover nectar—a flavor I have come to associate with white tea. It lingered in my mouth and throat, together with the floral fragrance, between sips. According to some sources there is supposed to be a bitter aftertaste following the sweetness, called “fragrance preserved between your teeth,” but all I experienced was a faint, tingling astringency on my tongue and at the back of my throat.

I steeped the second infusion the same way. The liquor was slightly lighter, but still very much visible. The leaves had released more of the floral scent, which was more apparent, though still faint. The flavor was less sweet, and there was now a whisper of the “fragrance preserved between your teeth” bitterness in the aftertaste. It, and the soft floral scent lingered my mouth as I steeped the third infusion.

Much to my surprise, while the color was considerably lighter, both flavor and fragrance were the strongest of the three steepings, and the balance of sweet and bitter were almost out of the realm of 'subtle.' I noticed on Canton's website that they advise infusing the leaves "at least 3 times." Some people might give up after the first mild cup, but as you can see, it's worth the extra time, and you enjoy a lot of tea in the process.

Taking them at their word, I infused one final pot for three minutes. The liquor is nearly colorless this time, but the fragrance is still there. The sweetness is clear, the bitter aftertaste a bit more muted, and the floral fragrance lingered on the tongue for some time afterward. All in all, a very satisfying fourth cup!

— To purchase Canton Tea Co. Yin Zhen (Silver Needle) 2009, or for more specific information on ingredients or the story behind this particular tea, click here to go directly to the manufacturer's web site.

Lynn Teaviews.com Reviewer » Read more about this reviewer on Lynn's profile page. » Find a list of recent posts by Lynn.

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